Canvass in Kuala Lumpur has a story to tell – their ethos is to cook sustainably (as zero waste as possible), and the team aims to use almost every part of an ingredient either in the form of food or cocktail. Nestled behind the former Istana Hotel in Bukit Bintang, Canvass is understated and offers a relatively peaceful dining environment.
I’ll be frank; the restaurant brand positioning is a bit confusing. The tagline #SustainableHedonism doesn’t quite gel with their offerings, which happens to be Nordic inspired. Another confusing bit there, as most locals aren’t familiar with Nordic cuisine, if I may say so.
Anyway, I digress.
We started with the Heirloom Tomato Salad (RM29) – a medley of three different heirloom tomatoes, lacto fermented and served with pesto and feta cheese. Simple, but enjoyable as the fermentation method makes the tomatoes more intense in flavour.
One of my favourites for the night is the Cured Local Snapper (RM42) as the fish slices are meaty yet sweet, from the light curing. I also like how they fermented the capsicum, chilli and coriander for the sauce to bring down the peppery notes a few notches. Really accentuates the snapper.
Another dish I enjoyed is the Kaduk Chicken (RM29), where the chicken mousse is wrapped in local kaduk leaves, grilled and served with on a base of fermented capsicum and chilli. It’s light but the flavours slowly unfold as you work your way through this starter.
Fish Cakes (RM35) is said to be traditionally Nordic (I cannot vouch for that) but whatever it may be, it’s done well at Canvass. Meaty, solid fish patties with homemade remoulade that’s slightly gritty from the capers and finely minced vegetables.
Bread is also made in-house at Canvass – wholewheat sourdough (40 hours fermentation), enriched yeast brioche, corn and semolina biscuits (RM25), served with olive oil, chickpea and parsnip spread. Definitely deeper in flavour and from what I know, lower in GI index for easy digestion.
The Mushroom Barley Risotto (RM38) is lighter than what one would expect for a risotto as it has a combination of arborio and organic barley, cooked in a light mushroom dashi. I like how they don’t immediately add truffle or an external umami element to flavour the dish, but instead, braise, roast and sear the mushrooms to bring out flavour.
Canvass’ mains are fairly commendable but not so much as the starters, I feel. Lamb Gnocchi (RM58) features slow-cooked lamb shoulder in tomato sauce with potato gnocchi, topped with three types of melted cheese. We also had the Flank Steak (RM55) – 180g of beef marinated with black pepper and served with yuzu lemon kosho. Solid, but not particularly memorable.
For desserts, Canvass offers several healthy options. A la Marcell (RM28) is a gluten-free dark chocolate mousse served with sour cream and red berry coulis. I reckon this would be popular among the health-conscious crowd, but I personally prefer a more decadent dessert.
Lemon Cheesecake Mousse (RM29) is served on a caramel and cookie buckwheat crumble. Tastes like a cheesecake, though I wish it was more indulgent. The Rice Pudding (RM25) comes with cherry sauce and toasted oat and buckwheat – light and tasty enough, but not my kind of sweet ending.
Owner and bartender Rony suggested we try the Chocolate Mousse (RM23) – a sweet-savoury combination of dark chocolate mousse with sea salt and black pepper, fermented strawberries and mixed crumble. I prefer this over the rice pudding.
Cocktails are a highlight at Canvass – in-house infusions made naturally with no refined sugar. This one, I can see a stronger connection to their zero waste, sustainable concept. And yes, they make good cocktails – customised to your preference. I like mine strong, bitter and smoky, and they delivered on the dot.
I enjoyed my time at Canvass. The starters are their strongest point, in my opinion. Mains aren’t as good as starters and desserts aren’t as good as mains. But on the whole, the food is enjoyable and quite well-priced too.
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Ambiance: 7/10
Price: 6.5/10
Food: 6.5/10 (pork-free)
Verdict: Try the local cured snapper, tomato salad and kaduk chicken. Mains are solid and well-priced, especially the flank steak.
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Canvass Bistro & Cocktail Bar
38, Jalan Bedara,
Bukit Bintang,
50200 Kuala Lumpur.
Tel: 012-329 2820
Website